COUTURE STORIES | ALLI

ALLI'S 'PEONY & WILD ROSE SECRET GARDEN' HAND EMBROIDERED LACE GOWN

Alli’s brief was ‘Heirloom quality, something classic & timeless with a contemporary twist’. The gown was to be full of special secret messages, entwined around flowers. We created a gown with unique lace appliqué peonies and roses scattered over cascading tulle with a pearl dusting.

ARTWORK AND EMBROIDERY INSPIRATION

Our House artists began painting peonies & wild roses to inspire Alli’s embroidery. We always start with colourful paintings to explore the depth & texture of each element, before converting them into white embroideries. We use different materials, thread weights, textures & finishes to create a 3D quality in tonal colour ways.

Watercolour painting of a single blush pink peony, original artwork for Alli's Hermione de Paula couture embroidery design

Watercolour painting of a flowering rose branch with four blush pink blooms, design artwork for Alli's Hermione de Paula gown

Watercolour painting of two pale pink peony blooms on a stem, design artwork for Alli's Hermione de Paula gown

Watercolour painting of a rose branch with pink blooms and buds on blush paper, design artwork for Alli's Hermione de Paula gown

DESIGN PROPOSAL, SKETCHES & CONCEPTS

Working with renowned USA stylist Carrie Goldberg, the Hermione de Paula team sketched Alli’s dream silhouette & began working through the concept. Placing the peonies and wild roses, playing with scale. At this stage, we count every pearl and analyse how many hours of work each single flower takes to craft, so we can begin to realise the design from dream to reality, and formalise a proposal for Alli to review, making revisions until it’s perfect.

Fashion croquis sketch of Alli's Hermione de Paula gown, a strapless A-line ballgown covered in floral embroidery

Pencil sketch of a large peony embroidery motif with smaller florals, design artwork for Alli's Hermione de Paula gown

Close-up of a 3D floral lace embroidery applique on tulle with crystal beading, from Alli's Hermione de Paula gown

HAND EMBROIDERY SWATCHES

Work in progress images of hand embroidered floral swatches. Hand made Leavers lace, silk crepe de chine & organza is appliquéd on tulle, and finished with pearl beads. The Hermione de Paula atelier creates variations of design and send to Carrie, Alli and her Mother to review.

Hand-embroidered floral lace swatch with pearl beading on tulle, embroidery sample for Alli's Hermione de Paula gown

Close-up of a hand-embroidered rose motif with pearl beading on tulle, embroidery detail for Alli's Hermione de Paula gown

Hand-embroidered floral lace panels with pearl beading laid out on tulle, embroidery swatches for Alli's Hermione de Paula gown

MADE TO MEASURE PATTERN & TOILE

Imagery of the toile, the shape of the gown, was shared with Alli prior to sending to NYC for an in person fitting with our trusted local tailor.

Back view of the unembellished toile for Alli's Hermione de Paula gown on a mannequin, showing the strapless A-line silhouette

Side view of the toile for Alli's Hermione de Paula gown with a long train, fitted for silhouette before embroidery

ARTWORKING

The detail of each individual flower comes to life, eventually to be engineered into the embroideries.

Pencil sketch of a peony embroidery motif with smaller blossoms, artwork study for Alli's Hermione de Paula gown

Pencil sketch of a floral embroidery cluster with peony and small blossoms, artwork study for Alli's Hermione de Paula gown

Pencil sketch of a peony embroidery motif with surrounding small flowers, artwork study for Alli's Hermione de Paula gown

Pencil sketch of a peony embroidery motif with a bud and small blossoms, artwork study for Alli's Hermione de Paula gown

EMBROIDERY ENGINEERING

The paper pattern artwork on the toile. Motif placement is considered with painstaking detail, with pieces moving until the perfect placement is achieved.

Front view of Alli's finished Hermione de Paula gown on a mannequin, an A-line ballgown fully embroidered with 3D floral lace applique

Close-up of the bodice and skirt on Alli's Hermione de Paula gown showing dense 3D floral lace embroidery engineering

Detail of the embroidered skirt on Alli's Hermione de Paula gown with a hand-lettered fabric tag reading 'take my hand, take my whole life too'

Back view of the embroidered bodice and skirt on Alli's Hermione de Paula gown, showing the centre-back zipper and floral lace placement

TOILE FITTING & EMBROIDERY REVIEW

Under the watchful eye of stylist Carrie Goldberg, the toile of Alli’s gown is fitted in NYC. Hermione ZOOMed into the meeting, and together the design was reviewed and tweaked.

Black-and-white close-up of pearl-beaded lace embroidery on tulle for Alli's Hermione de Paula gown, with pencil placement notes

Black-and-white side view of Alli wearing her finished Hermione de Paula gown, a strapless A-line ballgown with sheer train

Black-and-white back view of the tiered tulle underskirt structure for Alli's Hermione de Paula gown on a mannequin

Close-up of hand-embroidered floral lace with pearl beading on tulle, embroidery detail for Alli's Hermione de Paula gown

LOOM WIP

Work in progress images of the lace flowers being hand embroidered onto tulle, on a loom.

Row of hand-embroidered floral lace panels with pearl beading pinned to a workroom table during construction of Alli's gown

Close-up of hand-embroidered floral lace with pearl beading scattered across sheer tulle for Alli's Hermione de Paula gown

Hand-embroidered floral lace applique with pearl beading pinned to tulle during construction of Alli's Hermione de Paula gown

Hand-embroidered floral lace panels with pearl beading laid across gathered tulle during construction of Alli's Hermione de Paula gown

CUTTING, STITCHING, FINAL SEWING

The hand embroidered panels are constructed into their finished gown.

Side view of Alli's finished Hermione de Paula gown on a mannequin, close-up of pearl-beaded floral lace bodice and A-line skirt

Close-up of the one-shoulder floral lace bodice on Alli's finished Hermione de Paula gown, with hidden 'love you' embroidery in the skirt

Front view of Alli's finished Hermione de Paula gown on a mannequin, a square-neck A-line gown fully embroidered with pearl-beaded floral lace

Full front view of Alli's finished Hermione de Paula gown on a mannequin, an A-line silhouette covered in floral lace embroidery

COUTURE FINISHINGS

Embroidery is finished by hand to conceal the seams of Alli’s gown. Every single detail is finalised by Hermione de Paula’s talented team of seamstresses.

Close-up of a hand pinning a wedding ring into hidden 'say yes' embroidery on the tulle of Alli's Hermione de Paula gown

Hand trimming loose threads from pearl-beaded floral lace embroidery on Alli's Hermione de Paula gown during final couture finishing

Close-up of hands finishing embroidery on Alli's Hermione de Paula gown, revealing a hidden 'take my hand' message stitched into the tulle

Close-up of hands hand-finishing pearl-beaded floral lace embroidery on the skirt of Alli's Hermione de Paula gown

PERSONAL MESSAGES

Hebrew vows are interwoven with song lyrics & personal messages.

Detail of hidden personal message embroidered in cursive thread among floral lace on Alli's Hermione de Paula gown, reading 'have I told you I love you today'

Detail of a hidden Hebrew personal message embroidered among pearl-beaded floral lace on Alli's Hermione de Paula gown

Detail of hidden personal messages embroidered in cursive thread on Alli's Hermione de Paula gown, reading 'you and me forever' and 'you are my one and only'

Detail of a hidden personal message embroidered in cursive thread among floral lace on Alli's Hermione de Paula gown, reading 'take my whole life'

FINISHING TOUCHES & GIFTS

The Hermione de Paula atelier created a hanger with matching embroidery, as a gift from the wedding party to the bride. Alli commissioned a framed picture of her bespoke embroidery, a cherished keepsake & memory of her wedding day.